Gonzales Videla Base. Tuesday, February 12

Landing at Waterboat Point, Gonzalez Videla Base.  Many adorable penguins and even more guano.  Hosted by Chilean navy.  Mailed post cards to ourselves and family.  We’ll see how long it takes for mail to arrive.  We came back to the ship smelling of guano.  Scenic cruising of Lemaire Channel.  We were lucky that the ice wasn’t thick and we were able to enter and cruise through.  Amazing scenery everywhere we looked!

·        Went to the gym for the first time in a while!  

·        Hadn’t heard from Nic by 10 so I called him right at 10.  He says they have a policy not to call guests till then and I played nice, said I was trying to facilitate.  Said he had another guest meeting but could get together at 1030.  Meet with Nic and Roland, the F&B manager  Believe it is a venting opportunity only.  The problems are systemic.  Nic took notes on tablet and Roland on paper. 

·        At lunch everyone is very solicitous.  Able to get soda.  Welcomed by name by the hostess.

·        Going to the Chilean base today.  Postcards. Souvenirs.  Mainland Antarctica.

·        Cute little base.  The Chileans seem grateful and have out cookies and coffee.  Not sure (I’m a cynic) if it was for tips or conversation.  On retrospect, conversation.  Happy to show us around. There’s a main building and a museum. T shirts are vivid red and announce I’ve been to Antarctica so I don’t buy one. We send postcards to Carole, Ken, us, Eric (only college one who gave me address) and Linda.  (NOTE: postcards arrive early August!)  Run into photog Collin who shows us a photo of him against the side of one of the buildings which is painted to be the Chilean flag.  Technically this was off the path we could explore.

·        Amazing penguin sighting. Base is in the center of them.  We’re told to stay on path but penguins cross it.  At one point a penguin is on a path and we’re not sure about disrupting it so we wait and cause people traffic pile up.  Eventually we all decide to just go slowly.

·        Stench stays on our clothing through the evening.  Chris says it was only a 3 not a 47 on a 10 point scale.  Wow...

·        When we return Roland meets the Zodiac and says he wants to talk.  (this might have happened a different day)

·        Back in time for 530 caviar event. People line up for the stuff. I have a beer but it’s a bit of a conflict with bartender who swears there is no South American beer.  I point out 3 bottles on the counter and he mutters that they might be reserved for someone else.  Bullshit.  I’m fairly pissed.  They’ve yet to stock any new beers.  And this guy has just acted like I’m not entitled to the beer because it was for someone else.

·        Meet Jim and Judy from Delaware who propose dinner

·        After 630 expedition briefing we dash for dinner.  Host offers us a window table with a wink.  People have been talked to

·        Lots of attention at dinner.  Sommelier comes over with a bottle of Rapture Cabernet and big wine glasses.  We’d already started on the evening’s wine (plus I’d had a beer and Maxine champagne at caviar event). He offers to have it sent to our room.  

·        As we leave dinner everyone says goodbye including the Restaurant Manager and Roland the F&B manager.  Apparently the wine is not in room but in cellar for us to request later…

·        Go upstairs to Observation Bar grab window seats.  Easy to get hot chocolate with rum.. Have 3.   Roland comes by and he’s already verified that I’ve been given the hot chocolate.  He’s taking a personal interest now!  Order the 3rd one from a different girl and this time it’s “but of course” attitude.  People have most decidedly been talked to.

·        I thank Roland again as we leave.

·        Lemaire Channel.  Gorgeous.  The “small ship Ushuaia” ahead of us.  I look it up later and it’s tiny with 98 guests, 10 knot max speed to our 20, and rails to keep you from falling out of bed.  Outside the snow/hail is stinging but both MJP and I go out multiple times.  Bed by 11, some rolling and bumps but good night sleep